Langoustine Chowder

First up what the hell is a langoustine?  Its a sea critter too big to be a shrimp and way too small to be a lobster.  It is its own critter, not quite as sweet as lobster, but very close.  I first had them several years ago and fell in love with them. They aren't native to my local waters so I need to keep an eye out for them in their frozen state.  Luckily both Trader Joe's and Costco have them from time to time.  When they show up, I grab a bag as they are too good to pass up.

I use a lot of sweet corn, the white variety as its much sweeter than the darker yellow stuff.  Its easy to find in the frozen aisle.  Certainly those 3 weeks is peak of freshness in August I'll use the real deal, but then why limit oneself to so few weeks when the frozen stuff is quite a good substitute.

I use a russet potato,aka Idaho baking as they hold their shape and texture better than the waxy varieties like a Yukon gold in a chowder.  Important to know your spuds and when to use which.

Shhh...big secret here, I don't use flour and make a roux with my chowder which prolly will land me on a 10 most wanted list in New England...but I'm a California guy and I'll do it my way for speed and ease of prep. Corn starch works wonders and doesn't have to cook out to get rid of a "flour" taste.

Lastly, this recipe doesn't call for a specific amount of salt.  The reason being is that salt pork and broth both contain a fair amount of salt in them.  Its best to test for seasoning after the half and half has been added and thickened and add a quarter or half teaspoon as needed at the end.  Its much easier and safer to do it this way rather than piling on the salt early and then have too much in your chowder.

Langoustine Chowder

• 1 lb langoustines
• 1 small onion
• 1 stick celery
• 1 carrot
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1 T fresh thyme leaves
• 1/4 lb salt pork or pancetta
• 2 cans chicken broth
• 3 c sweet corn
• 2 large russet potato
• salt
• 1/2 t fresh ground black pepper
• 2 T corn starch
• 4 c half and half

Cube salt pork and brown in heavy stock pot over medium heat.

Finely mince onion, carrot, celery and garlic.  Add to salt pork and cook 2-3 minutes until soft and translucent.  Add thyme leaves and cook 1 minute longer. 

Add chicken broth, sweet corn, finely diced potato and bring to boil then reduce heat to slow simmer.  Cook 15 minutes.  Whisk together cornstarch and half and half.  Stir into your veggie mix and bring to boil and simmer 5 minutes until starting to thicken.  Test for seasoning and add salt if needed.

Add langoustines and cook until opaque, about 5 minutes. (If using frozen cook 1-2 minutes until just heated through).

Serve hot with a big slice of crusty cheesy garlic bread.

Plum Dumplings with the volume turned up

I

I thought of my Dad the other day when his sister, my Aunt Kathy posted on FB that she was making plum dumplings for dinner.  Its a Slovene dumpling that is just a few simple ingredients and served with soft butter on top.  I decided to turn up the volume a bit and made a brown butter herb sauce to toss them in before serving.  A bit less fat than a pat of butter per dumpling and some herbs for brightness and green.  OMG were they good.  My grandmother, heck even my mother would likely snort and chortle at the idea, but it REALLY WORKED.

The recipe itself is generations old.  The actual roots are obscured to family lore.  My Dad had them as a kid and made my Ma make them for him as a treat in the fall when the tiny "prune plums" came ripe.  Dad would likely even know the Slovene name, google translate calls it "plum cmoki" which is nothing I ever recall hearing growing up.

I made them some 25 years ago for my then fiance.  We liked them, but never made them again until that nostalgic twang struck the other day.  Why you may ask...they are labor intensive.

The dough in looking at the recipe isn't that much unlike an Italian gnocci.  With Slovenia and northern Italy next door neighbors the ancient roman influence could well be the ancient root of this dumpling dough.  Just a wild arsed guess.

Plum Dumplings in Herbed Brown Butter Sauce

• 8-10 small ripe plums
• 1 c hot mashed potatoes
• 1 1/4 c flour
• 2 T melted butter
• 1 egg beaten
• 1/2 salt
• Bench flour - scant cup

Filling

• 1/3 c sugar
• 1 t ground cinnamon

Brown Butter Herb Sauce

• 1 stick butter
• 1 T minced parsley
• 1 T minced mint
• Pinch of salt to taste

In stand mixer add mashed potatoes, flour and 1/2 t salt.  Whiz a minute or so until flour is well dispersed.  With mixer on low pour in melted butter then the egg.  Mix just until a soft dough comes together.  Let rest 5 minutes.

Bring a large stock pot, 4-6 quarts of water with salt to a boil.

Half the plums and remove the pits.  Use the "plumber crack" groove on the plum as a guide to halve your plums precisely.  Take a piece of dough the size of a walnut and flatten.  Place a plum half in the do cut side up.  Add 1/2 t cinnamon mixture.  Bring up the edges of the dough and seal all seams. Roll dumpling in flour and set on a tray to rest while you make the rest of your  Repeat with remaining dough, plums and cinnamon/sugar mix.

Place dumplings in the salted boiling water.  They will sink. Stir gently at first so they don't stick to the bottom and tear.  Reduce heat to a simmer and cook 20 minutes stirring occasionally.  The will float to the surface as they cook.

While dumplings cook make the Herbed Brown Butter Sauce.  Take stick of butter and put in large skillet over medium heat.  Stir as the milk solids begin to foam and brown to prevent scorching.  When the butter is browned, reduce heat to low and add the minced herbs.  Cook stir in and taste for seasoning and add a pinch or two of salt.  Place the cooked dumplings in the browned butter and herbs turning to coat.

Step by Step dumpling making:

flatten walnut sized piece of dough until about 1/8" thick, about twice the diameter of a plum half

spoon in scant 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon sugar into the hole left behind by the plum pit

Pull dough sides up and over the center of the plum, sealing edges to form dumpling. Be gentle so you don't tear the dumpling skin.

Roll completed dumpling in flour and set aside on a clean tray to rest

After putting dumplings in the boiling water allow the water to come back up to a boil.  When it does reduce heat to a simmer.  A Hard boil will cause the dumpling skins to burst and leave you with a giant mess.

Use a slotted spoon to remove the dumplings from the boiling water.  Let excess water drip off and slip the dumpling into the browned butter.  Turn carefully to coat so you don't tear the dumpling skin.

Serve hot...enjoy!

Potato Leek soup

This righteous and tasty soup is easy to make, but the cutting and dicing is laborious.  I don't mind the dicing as it puts me in a relaxing zen space as I cut through all the spuds.  I use a 1/2 inch dice as those that don't get whizzed I like to fit on a spoon.

Hat tip to my friend Ruth who found the OCD cutting board.  This board is for those who haven't figured out  how to do the various dice and make them fit a prescribed size that is often referred to by name rather than some metric.  I don't have one, but looked the board and learned that the proper name for the 1/2" dice is a "batonnet".  Who knew that one?  I'll probably continue to refer to it as a "1/2 inch dice" to make it easier on whomever stumbles upon this little blog.

Potato Leek Soup

• 6 cups (approx 1 1/2 lbs) Rose potatoes, 1/2" dice
• 2 leeks thinly sliced
• 1/4 c butter
• 1 T dill weed
• 2 T parsley
• 2 14 oz cans chicken broth
• salt 
• pepper
• asiago cheese
• sliced spring onion

In large sauce pot add butter, potato and leek.  Over medium heat sweat until the leeks are translucent, about 5-10 minutes.  Add chicken broth and herbs.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.  Cover, reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes.  Place 2/3 of soup mixture in blender and whiz until smooth.  Return to sauce pan, stir in well and bring to simmer again.  Serve hot with a garnish of asiago cheese and spring onion.

Stupid Easy Potato Gratin

Some things seem way more daunting than they really are.  Some things like Potato Gratin Dauphinoise are much easier than one thinks they are to complete. Its the complicated name that gets to people.  They also make a great stupid easy side dish for things like Coq Au Vin or similar to get your starch portion of the dinner complete.

This recipe is microwave friendly...and couldn't begin to tell you with certainty how long to do it in a traditional oven or at what temp.  It was created years ago when I was an apartment dweller and had an oven so small that even a turkey couldn't fit so I HAD to come up with ways to move stuff to the micro.  Timing in the recipe is based on a 1200 watt microwave.

I have to admit I'm a gadget freak and love them all.  A while back I picked up small hand held mandolin at Surfas in Culver City.  Its great for perfectly thin slices that don't deviate in size...much better than I can accomplish with my knife skills.  It is the tool I go to for making gratins such as this.

Another tool that I use a lot in the kitchen is the microplane.  It is perfect for adding a dusting of nutmeg, chocolate, zesting a lemon or what have you.  Much better at the job than a box grater or similar tool.

Potato Gratin

• 1 1/2 lbs baking potato
• heavy cream
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided
• 1/8 t nutmeg, divided
• salt
• pepper

Butter your a 1.5 quart casserole dish.  Slice potatoes with the mandolin.  Put in layer of potatoes about 2-3 slices thick.  Salt, Pepper, dusting of nutmeg, and 1/4 of the Parmesan.  Repeat until all the potatoes are used and you are within an inch of the top.  Pour in heavy cream until it just reaches the top layer.  Put dish in microwave oven.  Microwave on HIGH for 10 minutes, then 20 Minutes at half power.

Poblano Potato Gratin

One of my favorite cooking magazines is Gourmet.  The recipes are pretty global and they give the history of the region it came from as well as resources for the odd ingredients.  Fortunately in LA I usually don't have to wander too far too often to find the real deal or a reasonable substitute.

This recipe was in the November 2008 issue and it really got my attention.  Potato gratin with attitude thanks to some roasted peppers.  IT could go with a lot of different foods as the heat was just enough.  And it did just that last night when a bunch of my old friends from the cube-dwelling days got together for the Holidays.  This was the perfect side, adding just the right amount of heat and creaminess to counter point the Asian Crusted Salmon (recipe to follow) and a traditional Beef Bourginon.

Poblano Potato Gratin

Serves 8 (side dish) 

Active time:45 min Start to finish:2 1/2 hr 

November 2008 

In Mexican cuisine, rajas refers to thin strips of roasted chiles. Although they commonly spice up everything from stews to tamales, rajas are best when adding a kick to creamy dishes. Here, forest-green poblanos lend a mild, almost fruity heat to a potato gratin.

• 1 1/2 lb fresh poblano chiles (about 5) -I substituted Anaheim
  
• 1 lb onions, cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips 
  
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 
  
• 3 lb large Yukon Gold potatoes 
  
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 
  
• 3/4 cup whole milk - I substituted non-fat milk
  

Roast chiles and make rajas:

Roast chiles on their sides on racks of gas burners (or see cooks’ note, below) on high, turning with tongs, until skins are blackened all over, about 10 minutes. Immediately transfer to a bowl and let stand, covered tightly, 10 minutes.

When chiles are cool enough to handle, peel or rub off skin. Slit chiles lengthwise, then stem, seed, and devein. Cut lengthwise into thin strips.

Cook onions with 1 tsp salt in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 8 minutes. Stir in chiles and remove rajas from heat. Reserve 1/2 cup rajas for topping.

Make gratin:

Preheat oven to 400°F with rack in middle. Generously butter a 3-qt shallow baking dish.

Peel potatoes, then cut crosswise into 1/16-inch-thick slices with slicer. Transfer to a small heavy pot. Add cream, milk, and 1 tsp salt and bring just to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally (liquid will thicken). Stir in rajas, then pour mixture evenly into baking dish. Sprinkle reserved 1/2 cup rajas on top.

Bake until potatoes are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let stand 15 minutes before serving.

Cooks’ notes: 

Chiles can be roasted by broiling on a broiler pan 2 inches from heat, turning, 8 to 10 minutes. 

Rajas can be made 3 days ahead and chilled. 

Gratin can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Bring to room temperature and reheat, covered, in a 350°F oven (about 30 minutes).

Braised Beef Short Ribs Provencal

Some days I just want something beefy. Something really hardy. Beef Short Ribs are a good way to go on the cheap. It is a tougher cut of meat that needs a long slow cooking, either stewing or braising to make it fork tender.

Beef Short Ribs are a good cut to work with. Bone-in when you can get them as that adds even more flavor to the final dish. The added boner to the deal, pun intended is that if you like the marrow you have a nice bit in each bone.

This recipe is a combination of a couple of Beef Burgundy recipes. French food isn't always about pissy saucing and fancy prep taking hours. A large majority I have found to be very simple for both categories. Provence is in the southern part of France where they can grow citrus and you find it in a lot of their cooking. Ditto things like tarragon and thyme.

The end result is a dish very close to what I had for lunch one day in Paris last year. The only thing I have not been able to duplicate or find a recipe for is the lentil stew that the Mono Prix Cafe served along side their braised beef short ribs. Someday maybe?

Braised Beef Short Ribs Provencal

• 4 - 4 1/2 lbs Beef Short Ribs
• 1 c all purpose flour
• 1/4 c Montreal Brand Steak Seasoning
• 1 large yellow onion
• 1 c carrot
• 1T chopped garlic
• zest of 1 orange
• 1 T tarragon
• 1 T Thyme
• 1 T parsley
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 can beef broth (12 oz)
• 2 c +/- red wine
• Salt
• Pepper
• 6T butter
• olive oil

Mix flour and steak seasoning. Dredge beef short rib through flour and coat well. In fry pan over medium-high heat add a couple of tablespoons olive oil and 2T butter. (Oil keeps butter from burning). Add beef short ribs to hot pan. Sear each side well. Do in batchs so the ribs get a good seared crust.

Put seared short ribs on platter while cooking up the others. Reserve the unused flour mixture. When done with the searing deglaze pan with 1C wine. Scrape up all the bits from the bottom.
Set pan and all the bits aside.

While searing the beef in heavy large dutch oven heat over medium flame. Coarse chop onion. Cut carrots into 1/2" thick cubes. Add 2T oil and 2 T butter. Add carrots and onion. Add tarragon, thyme and parsley. Salt and pepper to taste. Stir often until soft and onion is beginning to caramelize., about 10-15 minutes. Add garlic, orange zest and cook 1 minute, being careful to not burn the garlic. Deglaze pan with the beef broth, scraping up the brown bits.

Add the reserved beef ribs to the dutch oven include any juices that collected on the bottom of the bowl. Add the wine from the deglazed skillet. Add another cup of so of wine to the dutch oven to just cover the beef short ribs. Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning as needed.

Bring to a boil then cover with the lid. Reduce heat to simmer and 1 1/2-2 hours. (Or put in 300F oven for same time period).

At end of cooking period take 2T of the reserved flour seasoning mixture and 2T butter. Cut butter into the flour with a fork to make a beurre manie'. Add the beurre manie in little bits and stir in well to make a thick gravy.

Serve with small boiled herbed potato or mashed potato on the side.

Use just enough oil to coat the vegies and stir often so they cook evenly. Salt at this stage helps the vegies sweat out their liquid and caramelize faster.

It is really important to get a good sear and crust on the ribs as that color is flavor.

You get the idea...damn new camera phone is extra sensitive to jiggles but you get the idea.